Streiff's 
System of 
Garment 
Cutting' 



E.L. STREIFF 



Streiff's 
System of 
Garment 
Cutting 



By 

E. L. STREIFF 




Copyright 1913 

...by... 

EUGENE L. STREIFF 

DETROIT, MICHIGAN 

All Rights Reserved Under 
Berne Convention 



■y "1 

Streiff's System 



INTRODUCTION 

For a score of years the custom trade has been losing prestige and going from the custom to the 
ready to wear, until, at the present time, about 80 per cent of all clothing is put on the market by 
the ready-to-wear manufacturer, which is the reverse percentage of conditions twenty years ago. The 
reason for such reversal is inaccurate methods of cutting, which fact compels the retention of the 
system of making as in ye olden time, with about the same convenience and economy of manufacture. 
Such a condition will not permit competition with modern methods of the ready-to-wear. The mak- 
ing of clothes to order is the most satisfactory to the consumer, because choice of cloths, style of cut 
and workmanship can be ordered to the individual taste. The cost of manufacture would be no more 
than the cost of ready-to-wear; and, considering all things, the custom trade should be a live leader 
and not trail. 

Since the advent of modern clothing many an attempt has been made by members of the craft 
to discover a system that would be reliable in establishing the fitting points on all forms of man, but 
up to the present time without avail. A multiplicity of methods are practiced by the craft with vari- 
able success. Tailors find experience and judgment necessary to right the mistakes caused by sys- 
tems based on eroneous principles. Experience is hard to obtain and judgment is a rare quality, 
therefore something more is required to produce balance and fit in garments. 

Having acquired a system by persistent study and practice that will meet the requirements of 
the craft, I publish the same in the belief that any improvement will receive that patronage which its 
importance demands. This system herein contained is not an improved nor a redressed system of 
proportions, but is based on actual circumferential measures well known to the craft. The balance 
leng.h, position and slope of shoulder, as well as suppression of the back, are obtained in a new and 
scientific way, positively reliable. 

Every point of the whole system moves as man does in his change of attitude, thereby insuring 
at all times a truly balanced garment to the careful operator. 

The system is so arranged that the rearrangement of seams to suit style changes can be easily 
accomplished without disarrangement of the important fitting points. The enlargement of garments 
to any size desired has been provided for by additions to certain measures. 

The measures are few in number and easy to take accurately; are all circumferential excepting 
lengths. 

Geometry is the fundamental science that permitted the solution of the problem involved. For 
the convenience of the student, every diagram is explained in full. 

That my humble efforts will merit the approbation of the craft and that the system will eventu- 
ally become a standard, is the belief of j :.■ Yours truly, 

EUGENE L. STREIFF. 



©CLA348787 



Streiff's System 




EUGENE L. STREIFF 



StreifFs System 



DIAGRAMS A AND B. 

TO MEASURE 

THE COAT. 



Take all measures for overcoat, coat or vest, over the 
vest. 

Establish point A, at the socket bone of neck, find 
the center of back at B, establish C at the hollow of 
waist. 

Measure the length of sleeve under the arm from E 
to F. 

To measure the shoulder-balance stand to one side 
and toward the back of the client. Place the end of 
the tape at A, hold it firm with the three fingers of the 
left hand, allowing the thumb and index finger to be free. 
Now pass your right hand under the arm and draw the 
tape to E (as line G on diagram B indicates). Now 
use your index finger to place the tape close under the 
arm, then allow the arm to fall and hang naturally; 
draw the tape upward a little and pass it diagonally 
acrcss the back to the thumb and index finger left free; 
now change hands without allowing the tape to slip and 
finish the measure, with the tape in the left hand, to A. 

Measure the attitude by bringing the tape down over 
the most prominent part of the shoulder blade to the 
center of back at B. 

NOTE: Always take the shoulder-balance and at- 
titude measures twice so as to be sure they are correct. 



Measure the natural-waist from A to C. 

Measure the length from A to D. 

Measure the breast over the fullest part of the chest 
and most prominent part of the blade at E. 

Measure the waist over the smallest part at C and 
H. 

THE VEST. 

Measure the opening from A to I. 
Measure the length from A to J. 

THE TROUSERS. 

Measure the outside length from H, a point on the 
hip, to K, a point I inch from the floor. 

Measure the inside length from L to M. 

Measure the waist, under the vest, over the trousers, 
at H. 

Measure the seat over the large part at N. 

Measure the knee at O. 

Measure the bottom at P. 

NOTE: Care must be taken to measure uniform, not 
loose nor tight. 

1 he client should stand in his natural attitude. 



StreifFs System 





Diagram A 



Diagram B 



Streiff's System 



DIAGRAM C. 



Note: All measures are taken over ihe vest. lo 
obtain ease or exageration certain measures must be in- 
creased. Such measures are: Shoulder-balance, atti- 
tude, breast, waist and seat. Add Yl inch to shoulder- 
balance and attitude measures and for each Yl inch so 
added to shoulder-balance and attitude add 1 inch to 
breast, waist and seat measures. Thus the size of a 
coat may be increased as desired. 

For the following diagram 1 inch has been added to 
shoulder balance and attitude and 2 inches to breast, 
waist and seat measures. 

THREE-BUTTON SACK. 
The Measures: 

Sleeve under arm 18 

Shoulder balance 28 

Attitude 24 

Natural waist 17 

Length 30 

Breast 40 

Waist 35 

Seat 41 

TO DRAFT. 

A is the point from which square. 

B from A is the natural waist. 

C from A is the length. 

D from A is I 3 shoulder balance. 

E from D is 1 48 shoulder balance. Square forward 
from E, B and C. 

F from B is I 16 attitude. 

G from F is Y+ inch for each inch the waist is less than 
the breast, I ' 4 inches for this diagram. 

H trom G is Yi waist. 

I from H is 2Yl inches. 

J from I is 24 inch, or Yl 'he amount desired for lap- 
over. Square down from J. 

K. from E is Yl breast. 

L from K is 2'/2 inches. 

M from L is '4 inch, or Yl the amount desired for lap- 
over. Draw a line from M to J. 

N from E is Yl attitude plus I Yl inches for making. 
1 3'/2 inches for this diagram. Square up and down 
from N. 

O from E is '4 of the distance as between E and N. 

P from O is the same distance as between E and N. 
Square up from P, guiding by point O. 

Q from P is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, 1 3 
inches for this diagram. 

R from E is the same distance as between E and A 
plus I Yl inches (or plus the amount added to Yl 
attitude as from E to N). 

S from R is the same distance as between R and P. 
Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square 
forward from Q. 

For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl of 
attitude plus 1 inch always, which for this diagram is 
I 3 inches. 



T from A is Ya- Square up from T. 
U from T is I 24. 

V fromE is 1/12. 

W from V is Yl- Square up from W. 

X from W is '/g. Square forward from X. 

Y from W is 1 /3. 

Z from Y is I 6. Square forward from Z. 

1 from Z is I 24. Draw a line from T to 1 and 
shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 

2 from N is I 12. 

3 from Q is I 6. Draw a line from 3 to L. 

4 from 3 is Yl- Square to 4, guiding by line P-Q. 

5 from W is Yl of 'he distance as between B and F. 
Square down from 5. 

6 is at the intersection of the lines squared down from 
5 and forward from B. 

7 from 6 is the same distance as between B and G. 

8 from 7 is Ya inch for each inch the seat is larger than 
the waist, 1 Yl inches for this diagram. Square 
down from 8. 

9 from 8 is Yl natural waist. Square back from 9. 
10 from 9 is I 24 seat. Draw a line from 8 through 

10. 

I 1 from 8 is the same distance as between B and C. 
Square forward from I I, guiding by line 8-10. 

12 is the junction of the lines squared forward from 1 I 
and down from N. Square forward from I 2. 

I 3 from 6 is the same disctance as between B and F. 
Draw a line from I 3 to 10. Shape the side seam of 
back from a point opposite X to 6 and of the fore 
part to a point Ya inch back from I 3 as represented. 
Shape the center seam of back reducing about Y% inch 
at B as represented. Shape the bottom of fore part. 

1 4 from N is 2 3 sleeve under arm and is center of 
pocket. Draw the pocket opening through 1 4 to 
parallel the bottom of fore part and make bYl 
inches in width, more or less, as desired. The 
breast pocket is I inch from N. Cut out the back 
and place point A at point Q with the line A-O on 
the line squared back from Q by point S. Mark 
around same and shape the shoulder, reducing Yl 
inch at the armscye. 

Shape the neck gorge through 4 and the armscye as 
represented. 

Draw a line from the center of armscye to 14 and 
shape as represented. Note: The amount to be taken 
out must rot exceed the distance between F and G. 
When a close fitting waist is desired take out the full 
amount. 

Establish the buttonholes. 

Draw a crease line from a point 1 Y4 inches from the 
neck gorge to the upper buttonhole. 
Draw a cutout '4 inch from 4. 
Shape the lapel and front. 

For a double-breasted coat add from L and I Yl 
the amount desired for lapover. 



Streiff's System 




8 



Streiffs System 



DIAGRAM D. 

THREE-BUTTON SACK, CORPULENT 

FORM. 



The Measures: 

Sleeve under arm I (>Yl 

Shoulder balance 30 Yl 

Attitude 27 

Natural waist 17 

Length 30 

Breast -!8 

Waist 49 

Seat 48 

NOTE: The shoulder balance and attitude measures 
have been increased I inch and the breast, waist and 
seat measures 2 inches each. (See note to diagram C 
for explanation.) 

TO DRAFT. 

A is the point from which square. 

B from A is the natural waist. 

C from A is the length. 

D from A is 1 /3 shoulder balance. 

E from D is 1 48 shoulder balance. Square forward 
from E, B and C. 

F from B is 1 16 attitude. 

G from F is Ya inch for each inch the waist is larger 
than the breast, Ya inch for this diagram. 

H from G is Yl waist. 

I from H is 2^2 inches. 

J from I is % inch or Yl the amount desired for lap- 
over. Square down from J. 

K from E is Yl breast. 

L from K is 2'/2 inches. 

M from L is Yj, inch or Yl the amount desired for lap- 
over. Draw a line from M to J. 

N from E is Yl attitude plus 1 Yl inches for making, 
1 5 inches for this diagram. Square up and down 
from N. 

O from E is Ya of the distance as between E and N. 

P from O is the same distance as between E and N. 
Square up from P. guiding by Point O. 

Q from P is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, 14'/2 
inches for this diagram. 

R from E is the same distance as between E and A 
plus 1 Yl inches (or plus the amount added to Yl 
attitude as from E to N). 

S from R is the same distance as between R and P. 
Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square 
forward from Q. 

For all divisionals not otherwise specified use Yl of 
attitude plus 1 inch always, which for this diagram is 
l4'/2 inches. 

T from A is '/i- Square up from T. 

U from T .s 1 24. 

V from E is I 12. 

W from V is Yl- Square up from W. 

X from W is '/a. Square forward from X. 

Y from W is 1 3. 



Z from Y is I /6. Square forward from Z. 

1 from Z is 1 /24. Draw a line from T to 1 and 
shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 

2 from N is 1/12. 

3 from Q is 1 /6. Draw a line from 3 to L. 

4 from 3 is Yl- Square to 4, guiding by line P-Q. 

5 from W is Yl °f the distance as between B and G. 
Square down from 5. 

6 is at the intersection of the lines squared down from 
5 and forward from B. 

7 from 6 is the same distance as between B and G. 

8 from 7 is Ya inch for each inch the seat is less than 
the waist, Ya inch for this diagram. Square down 
from 8. 

9 from 8 is Yl natural waist. Square back from 9. 

10 from 9 is I 24 seat. Draw a line from 8 through 
10. 

1 I from 8 is the same distance as between B an C. 
Square forward from 1 I, guiding by line 8-10. 

1 2 is the junction of the lines squared forward from 1 I 
and down from N. Square forward from 12. 
Draw a line from 7 to 11. Shape the side seam of 
back from a point opposite X to 6 and of the forr 
part to a point Ya inch back from 7 as represented. 
Shape the center seam of back, reducing about y% 
inch at B as represented. Shape the bottom of 
fore part. 

1 3 from N is 2 3 sleeve under arm and is center of 
pocket. Draw the pocket opening through 1 3 to 
parallel the bottom of fore part and make 7 inches 
in width, more or less, as desired. Cut aut the back 
and place point A at point Q with the line A-O on 
the line squared back from Q by point S. Mark 
around same and shape the shoulder, reducing Yl 
inch at the armscye. 

Shape the neck gorge through 4 and the armscye as 
represented. 

I 4 from J is I 24 waist. Shape from M, reducing at 
J through 14, so that the line when drawn will have 
but a slight curve. Establish the buttonholes. Draw 
a crease line from a point 1 Ya inches from the neck 
gorge to the upper buttonhole. 

1 5 is in front of pocket. Square down from 1 5 by the 
waist line. 

1 6 is at the junction of the line squared down from 15 
and forward from 1 2. Square back to 1 6, guiding 
by the line shaped through I 4 and square up by same 
to 15. 

I 7 is the junction of the line squared back to 1 6 and up 
to 15. Draw a line from the center of armscye to 
a point I inch from the back of pocket. Cut on line 
also pocket opening to 15; now fold so that line 
15-16 is on line 15-17, which will cause the pocket 
opening and under arm cut to spread. 
Draw a cutout at X and shape the lapel and front. 



Streiff's System 




10 



Streiff's System 



DIAGRAM E. 
THE SLEEVE TO DIAGRAM C 



1 he Measures: 
Sleeve under arm 
Attitude 



.18 
.24 



TO DRAFT. 

For all divisionals not otherwise specified use Yl of 
attitude plus 1 inch always, which for this diagram is 1 3 
inches. 

A is the point from which square. 

B from A is 1 3. 

C from A is 2 3. 

D from B is 1 12. Square back from D and B. 

E from C is the amount 1 3 inches. Draw a line from 

E to C. 
F from E is 1 6. Draw a line from F to C. 
G is at the intersection of the lines drawn from E to C 

and squared back from D. Circle from E, pivoting 

at G. 



H is at the intersection of the line circled from E and 

squared back from A. 
I from D is '/» inch always. Draw a line from H to I. 

Shape the undersleeve to I as represented. 
J from B is I / 1 2 sleeve under arm. 
K from B is Yl sleeve under arm. Draw a line down 

from K, guiding by point J. 
L from K is Yl sleeve under arm. Square back from 

L, guiding by line K-L. 
M from L is Yl of the amount desired for width of 

cuff plus Yl inch, 7 inches for this diagram. 
N is half way between L and M. 
O is established by squaring down from E and back 

from K. Draw a line from O through M and square 

forward by same to N as represented. 

Shape at O as represented. 

Shape from a point Y\ mcn back from F to M as 

represented. 

Shape at N and K as represented. 



Streiff's System 



11 




Diagram E 



12 



StreifFs System 



DIAGRAMS F AND G. 
THE COLLARS. 



DIAGRAM F. 
STORM COLLAR. 

TO DRAFT. 

A is established by placing the shoulder of the back and 
tore part in a locked position and marking around 
the back as represented. Remove the back. 

B is established at the hollow part of the neck gorge on 
the fore part. 

C from B is I [/4 inches. Draw a line through C to 
the upper buttonhole. Circle from A, pivoting at B. 

D is at the junction of the lines circled from A and 
drawn through C. 

E from D is the same distance as between A and D. 
Draw a line from E to B and shape from E to B 
as represented. Square up from E, guiding by the 
line shaped from E to B. 

F from E is the same distance as between B and C. 
Shape from F to C to parallel the line shaped from 
E to B. 

G from F is the width desired, 4 inches for this dia- 
gram. Shape from G as represented. 



DIAGRAM G. 
THE COLLAR TO DIAGRAM C. 

TO DRAFT. 

A is established by placing the shoulder of the back and 
fore part in a locked position and marking around the 
back as represented. Remove the back. 

B is established at the hollow part of neck gorge on the 
fore part. 

C from B is 1 \% inches. Draw a line through C to the 
upper buttonhole. Circle from A, pivoting at B. 

D is at the junction of the lines circled from A and 
drawn through C. 

E from D is the same distance as between A and D. 
Draw a line from E to B and square forward by 
same from E. 

F from E is the same distance as between B and C. 
Draw a line from F to C. Apply the width of leaf 
desired from F and shape to taste. 



Streiff's System 



13 




Diagram F 




Diagram C 



14 



StreifFs System 



DIAGRAM H. 
SINGLE-BREASTED VEST. 



The Measures: 

Shoulder balance 27 

Altitude 23 

Natural waist 17 

Breast 38 

Waist 33 

Opening 14 

Length 26 

TO DRAFT. 

A is the point from which square. 

B from A is the natural waist. 

C from B is Yi natural waist. 

D from A is 1 3 shoulder balance. 

E from D is 1 48 shoulder balance. Square forward 
from E and B. 

F from B is 116 attitude. 

G from F is Y* inch for each inch the waist is less 
than the breast, I |/4 inches for this diagram. 

H from G is Yl waist. 

I from H is 2 inches. Square down from I. 

J is half way between I and G. 

K. from E is Yl breast. 

L from K. is 2 inches. Draw a line from L to I. 

M is half way between L and E. Draw a line from 
M to J. 

N from E is Yl attitude plus I inch for making, \2Yl 
inches for this diagram. Square up from N. 

O from E is Yj, of the distance as between E and N. 

P from O is the same distance as between E and N. 
Square up from P, guiding by point O. 

Q From P is Yl attitude plus I inch for making, 12' j 
inches for this diagram. 

R from E is the same distance as between E and A 
plus I inch (or plus the amount added to Yl atti- 
tude as from E to N). Note: Points R and M 
come together on this diagram. 

S from R is the same distance as between R and P. 
Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square 
forward from Q. 

For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl of 
attitude plus I inch always, which for this diagram 
is I 2Yl inches. 

T from A is 1 4. Square up from T. 

U from T is I 24. 

V from E is I 16. 



W from V is Yl- Square up from W. 
X from W is Yl- 

Y from X is I 24. Square forward from Y. 
Z from Y is I 32. Draw a line from T to Z and 
shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 

1 from Q is I 6. Draw a line from 1 to L. 

2 from J is the same distance as between F and G. 
Draw a line from M through 2. Shape at J as 
represented. 

3 from 2 is I 6 natural waist. Draw a line from 
Cto 3. 

4 is established at the waist line by squaring to W, 
guiding by line C-3. Draw a cutout equaling the 
distance less Yl inch as between B and F and divide 
equally on either side of 4 as represented. Shape at 
B, reducing Y& inch. 

5 from J is the same distance as between 2 and 3. 

6 from Q is the opening plus I inch for making. 

7 from Q is the length plus I inch for making. 
Draw a line from 5 to 7. 

Cut out the back and place point A at point Q with 
the line A-O on the line squared back from Q by 
point S. Mark around same and schape the shoulder 
slightly at the armscye. Shape the armscye to M. 
Draw a line from a point at the neck gorge where 
back and fore part meet (called the shoulder point) 
to 6. 

Establish the buttonholes and pockets and shape 
from Q to 6 as represented. 

8 from Q is Yl inch always. Square back from 8 
by line shaped from Q to 6 and finish the neck strap 
as represented. 

Shape the front and bottom. 

The dot and dash lines represent vest with collar. 

9 from the shoulder point is Yl inch less than the dis- 
tance from the shoulder point to Q. 

Square forward and back from 9, guiding by the 
crease line. Shape the neck gorge as represented. 
Draw a line 54 inch from 9 to connect with the 
neck gorge for a collar stand. Shape the leaf to taste. 
For material that requires seaming make the collar 
stand Yl inch wider as represented by the dot and 
dash line ending in a spear point. 
For double-breasted vest add to the front of line 
L-I Yl of the amount desired for lapover. The 
line I -L is front whenever the opening does not reach 
the breast line. 

The neck gorge for clerical vest is obtained the same 
as for coat. 



Streiffs System 



15 




Diagram H 



16 



StreifFs System 



DIAGRAM I. 

DOUBLE-BREASTED VEST, CORPULENT 

FORM. 



The Measures: 

Shoulder balance 29 J/2 

Attitude 26 

Natural waist 17 

Breast 46 

Waist 47 

Opening 16 

Length 28J/ 2 

TO DRAFT. 

A is the point from which square. 

B from A is the natural waist. 

C from B is ' s natural waist. 

D from A is I 3 shoulder balance. 

E from D is I 48 shoulder balance. Square forward 

from E and B. 
F from B is I 16 attitude. 
G from F is J/4 inch for each inch the waist is larger 

than the breast, ! 4 inch for this diagram. 
H from G is Yl waist. 

I from H is 2 inches. Square down from I. 
J is half way between I and G. 
K from E is Yl breast. 

L from K is 2 inches. Draw a line from L to I. 
M is half way between L and E. Draw a line from 

M through J. 
N from E is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, 14 

inches for this diagram. Square up from N. 
O from E is Ya of the distance as between E and N. 
P from O is the same distance as between E and N. 

Square up from P, guiding by point O. 
Q from P is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, 1 4 

inches for this diagram. 
R from E is the same distance as between E and A 

plus 1 inch (or plus the amount added to Yl atti- 
tude as from E to N). 
S from R is the same distance as between R and P. 

Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square 

forward from Q. 

For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl of 

attitude plus 1 inch always, which for this diagram 

is I 4 inches. 
T from A is ','4. Square up from T. 
U from T is 1 24. 

V from E is I 16. 

W from V is Yl- Square up from W. 
X from W is Yl- 

Y from X is 1 24. Square forward from Y. 

Z from Y is I 32. Draw a line from T to Z and 
shape the top and armseye of back as represented. 

1 from Q is 1 6. Draw a line from 1 to L. 

2 from 1 is Yl- Square to I, guiding by line P-Q. 
Square down from 2 by line just squared. 

3 from 2 is 1 12. 

4 from J is 1 6 natural waist. Draw a line from C 
to 4. Shape at J as represented. 

• 



5 is established at the waist line by squaring to W, 
guiding by line C-4. Draw a cutout equaling the 
distance less Yl inch as between B and G and di- 
vide equally on either side of 5 as represented. 
Shape at B, reducing % inch. 

6 from J is the same distance as between 4 and J. 

7 from Q is the opening plus 1 inch for making. 

8 from Q is the length plus I inch for making. Draw 
a line from 6 toward 8. 

9 from I is 1 24 waist. Draw a line from a point 
the same distance below L as 9 is below I through 9. 



lOfr 



I 



/g waist. Square back to 10 by line 



drawn from a point below L through 9 and square 
down from 1 by same. 

1 1 from J is Yl inch always. Square down from 1 0, 
guiding by point 1 I . 

12 is at the junction of the lines squared down from 10 
and drawn from 6 toward 8. 

1 3 from Q ic the same distance as between Q and 8. 

14 from 10 is the same distance as between 10 and 12. 
Draw a line from 1 4 to 13 and shape as represented. 

1 5 from 6 is Yl inch always. Draw a line from 1 5 to 
12. Cut out the back and place point A at point Q 
with the line A-O on the line squared back from Q 
by point S. Mark around same and shape the shoul- 
der slightly at the armseye. Shape the neck gorge 
to 3 and the armseye to M. Draw a line from a 
point at the neck gorge where back and fore part 
meet (called the shoulder point) through 7. 

16 from the line 9-13 is 2Yl inches, or Yl the amount 
desired for lapover. Square forward to 1 6 and 
back, guiding by line 9-13. 

Space the buttonholes on line 9-13 and square for- 
ward and back from same by line 9-1 3. 

17 from the line 9-13 is 1 inch or Yl the amount de- 
sired for lapover. Draw a line from 1 6 to 17 and 
shape. The buttons are the same distance from the 
line 9-13 as the line 16-17 is distant from same. 
Draw a line up from L, guiding by point I. 

1 8 is the same distance from L as between L and 3. 

19 is the junction of the lines squared down from 2 and 
shaped to 3. 

20 from 1 9 is Yl inch less than the distance as between 
18 and 3. Draw a line through 20 to connect with 
the line 2-19 as represented. 

2 I from the shoulder point is V2 inch less than the dis- 

tance between the same point and Q. Square for- 
ward and back from 21, guiding by the crease line. 
Draw a line Ys, inch from 2 1 to connect with the 
neck gorge for collar stand. 
Shape the collar and lapel. 
Establish the pockets. 

Cut the pocket opening from the side seam of fore 
part and fold so that line 10-12 is on line 10-14, 
which will cause the pocket opening to spread. 
For material that requires seaming make the collar 
stand Yl inch wider as represented by the dot and 
dash line ending in a spear point. 



Streiff's System 



17 




Diagram I 



18 



Streiff's System 



DIAGRAMS J AND K. 
THE TROUSERS. 



The Measures: 

Outside length 42 

Inside length 32 

Waist 33 

Seat 41 

Knee 20 

Bottom 16 

NOTE: To obtain sufficient ease add to seat meas- 
ure from I to 3 inches according to the amount of ease 
desired. For this diagram 2 inches have been added to 
the seat measure. 

DIAGRAM J. 
THE FORE PART. 

TO DRAFT. 

A is the point from which square. 

B from A is the outside length. 

C from B is the inside length. 

D from C is 2 inches less than Yl of inside length. 
Square forward from C, D and B. 
For convenience use Yl °f seat measure for all di- 
visional not otherwise specified, which for this dia- 
gram is 20Yl inches. 

E from C is Yl inch always. 

F from E is I 3. Square up and down from F. 

G from E is Yl- Square up from G. 

H from E is I 24. 

I from G is I 24. 

J from G is '/g. 

K from G is [/g- Square back from K. 

L is the junction of the lines squared up from F and 
forward from A. 

M from L is '/8 waist. Draw a line from M to C and 
square forward by same from M. 

N from L is !/g waist. 

O is the junction of the lines squared forward from A 
and up from G 

P is the same distance from N as between O and N. 
Draw a line from M to P and square down by same 
through N. 

Q is the junction of the lines squared down by M-P 
and forward by M-C. Draw lines from Q to G 
and I. 

R is at the intersection of the lines squared down from 



F and forward from D. 

S from R is Ya knee. 

T from R is Ya knee. 

U is the junction of the line squared down from F and 

forward from B. 
V from U is Ya bottom. 



W from U is Ya bottom. Draw lines from H to 1 



and from T to W. From J to S and from S to V. 
Shape to H as represented. 
X from J is the same distance as between the lines 
drawn from Q to G and I at point K. Shape to J 
and X and down from X as represented. 

DIAGRAM K. 
THE BACK PART. 

Extend the lines T-S and W-V. 

Circle from M, pivoting at H and from H pivoting 

at T and from J using S as a pivot. 

1 from V is Yl inch. 

2 from W is Yl inch. 

3 from S is Yl inch. 

4 from T is Yl inch. 

5 from J is I 12. 

6 from H is I 12. 

7 from O is I 12. Draw a line through 7 to G. 

8 from 7 is I 12 waist. 

9 from 7 is Ya waist. Draw a line through 9 to F. 

1 from 9 is Ya inch for each inch the waist is less than 
the seat. 2 inches for this diagram. 

I 1 from I is I inch always. Draw a line from II to 6. 
Draw a line from 1 I toward 8. 

12 is the junction of the line drawn through 9 to F and 
from I I toward 8. Square forward from 12, guid- 
ing by line 9-F. 

1 3 from I 2 is the same distance as between 9 and I 0. 

1 4 from I 3 is Yl inch. Draw a line through 1 4 to 
connect with the line 9-F midway between the two 
points. 

Draw a line through 1 3 to 8. Shape from 8 to a 
point % inch below 5. reducing at point 7 as rep- 
resented. 

Shape from 5 to 3 So I as represented. 
Shape from II to 6 to 4 and 2 as represented. 
The notch below 6 is the same distance from I 1 as 
between H and M. 



StreifFs System 



19 




Diagram K 



Diagram J 



20 



StreifFs System 



DIAGRAM L. 
TROUSERS, CORPULENT FORM. 



The Measun ■.- : 

Outside length 41 

Inside length 29 

Waist 47 

Seat 49 

Knee 23 

Bottom 17 

Note: To obtain sufficient ease add to seat meas- 
ure from 2 to 4 inches according to the amount of ease 
desired. For this diagram 3 inches have been added ao 
seat measure. 

THE FORE PART. 

TO DRAFT. 

A is the point from which square. 

B from A is the outside length. 

C from B is the inside length. 

D from C is 2 inches less than Yl of inside length. 
Square lorward from C, D, and B. 
For convenience use Yl of seat measure for all di- 
visional not otherwise specified, which for this dia- 
gram is 24 Yi inches. 

E from C is Yi inch always. 

F from E is 1 3. Square up and down from F. 

G from E is Yl- Square up from G. 

H from E is 1 24. 

I from G is I 24. 

J frcm G is ' k. 

K frcm G is ' #. Square back from K. 

L is the junction of the lines squared up from F and 

forward from A. 
M from L is ' h waist. Draw a line from M to C and 

square forward by same from M. 
N from L is ' s waist. 
O is the junction of the lines squared forward from A 

and up from G. 
P is the same distance from N as between O and N. 

Draw a line from M to P and square down by sam.' 

through N. 
Q is the junction of the lines squared down by M-P 

and forward by M-C. Draw lines from Q to G 

and I. 



R is at the intersection of the lines squared down from 

F and forward from D. 
S from R is Ya knee. 
T from R is Yi knee. 
U is the junction of the lines squared down from F and 

forward from B. 
V from U is Yt bottom. 
W from U is '/4 bottom. Draw lines from H to T and 

from T to W. From J to S and from S to V. 

Shape to H as represented. 
X from J is the same distance as between the lines 

drawn from Q to G and I at point K. Shape from 

N to J and X and down from X as represented. 

THE BACK PART. 

Extend the lines T-S and W-V. 

Circle from M, pivoting at H, and from H pivoting 

at T, and from J using S as a pivot. 

1 from V is Yl inch. 

2 from W is Yl inch. 

3 frcm S is Yl ' ncn - 

4 from T is Yl inch. 

5 from J is I 12. 

6 from His 1 12. 

7 from O is I 12. 

8 from 7 is I 12 waist. 

9 from 7 is Y-i waist. Draw a line through 9 to F. 

1 from 9 is Ya >ncb for each inch the waist is less than 
the seat, Yl inch for this diagram. 

I I from 10 is I inch always. Draw a line from 11 to 6. 
Draw a line from I 1 toward 8. 

12 is the junction of the line drawn through 9 to F and 
from I I toward 8. Square forward from 1 2, guid- 
ing by line 9-F. 

1 3 from 1 2 is the same distance as between 9 and 1 0. 
Note: If less than Yl i° c h is the difference as be- 
tween 9 and 1 the same should be reduced from 
point I I and the cutout omitted. 
Draw a line through I 3 to 8. Shape from 8 to a 
point 3 /g inch below 5, reducing at point 7 as rep- 
resented. 

Shape from 5 to 3 to 1 as represented. 
Shape from II to 6 to 4 and 2 as represented. 
The notch below 6 is the same distance from 1 I as 
between H and M. 



Draw a line through 7 to G 



Streiff's System 



21 




Diagram L 



22 



StreifFs System 



DIAGRAM M. 
SINGLE-BREASTED OVERCOAT. 



I he Measures: 

Sleeve under arm 18 

Shoulder balance 29'/2 

Attitude 25|/2 

Natural waist 17 

Length 42 

Breast 43 

Waist • 38 

Seat 44 

NOTE: The shoulder and attitude measures have 
been increased 2Yl inches each and the breast, waist and 
seat measures 5 inches each as taken over the vest. 

TO DRAFT. 

A is the point from which square. 

B from A is the natural waist. 

C from A is the length. 

D from A is I 3 shoulder balance. 

E from D is 1 48 shoulder balance. Square forward 

from E, B and C. 
F from B is 1 16 attitude. 
G from F is '/4 inch for each inch the waist is less 

than the breast, I '/4 inches for this diagram. 
H from G is Yl waist. 
I from H is 2 inches. 
J from I is I '/? inches, or Yl tne amount desired for 

lapover. Square down from J. 
K from E is Yl breast. 
L from K is 2 inches. 
M Irom L is 1 Yl inches, or Yl ,ne amount desired for 

lapover. Draw a line from M to J. 
N from E is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, I 3% 

inches for this diagram. Square up and down from 

N. 
O from E is 14 of the distance as between E and N. 
P from O is the same distance as between E and N. 

Square up from P, guiding by point O. 
Q from P is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, 13*4 

inches for this diagram. 
R from E is the same distance as between E and A 

plus I inch (or plus the amount added to Yl atti- 
tude as from E to N). 
S from R is the same distance as between R and P. 

Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square 

forward from Q. 

For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl of 

attitude plus 1 inch always, which for this diagram 
is 1 3?4 inches. 

T from A is Ya- Square up from T. 
U from T is 1 24. 

V from Eis I 12. 

W from V is Yl- Square up from W. 

X from W is '/8- Square forward from X. 

Y from W is I 3. 

Z from Y is 1 6. Square forward from Z. 



1 from Z is 1 24. Draw a line from T to 1 and 
shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 

2 from N is I 12. 

3 from Q is I 6. Draw a line from 3 to L. 

4 from 3 is Yl- Square to 4, guiding by line P-Q. 

5 from W is Yl °f the distance as between B and F. 
Square down from 5. 

6 is at the intersection of the lines squared down from 
5 and forward from B. 

7 from 6 is the same distance as between B and G. 

8 from 7 is Y-i inch for each inch the seat is larger than 
the waist, 1 Yl inches for this diagram. Square 
down from 8. 

9 from 8 is Yl natural waist. Square back from 9. 

1 from 9 is 1 24 seat. Draw a line from 8 through 
10. 

1 1 from 8 is the same distance as between B and C. 

Square forward from 1 I . 
12 is the junction of the lines squared forward from 1 I 

and down from N. Square forward from 12. 
I 3 from 6 is the same distance as between B and F. 
I 4 is at the junction of the lines squared down from 5 

and forward from C. 

15 from II is I Yl inches. Note: The amount can be 
increased or decreased as desired. Draw a line 
from 8 to 15. Draw a line from I 3 to a point 
where the line 9-10 and 8-15 intersect. 

16 from 14 is the same, distance as between I I and 15. 
Draw a line from 6 to 16. 

Shape the side seam of back from a point opposite X 
to 6 and of the fore part to a point '/4 inch back 
from I 3 as represented. 

Shape the center seam of back, reducing about Y% 
inch at B as represented. Shape the bottom of fore 
part. 
I 7 from N is 2 3 sleeve under arm and is center of 
pocket. Draw the pocket opening through I 7 to 
parallel the bottom of fore part and make 6' 4 
inches in width, more or less, as desired. The breast 
pocket is I inch from N. Cut out the back and 
place point A at point Q with the line A-O on the 
line squared back from Q by point S. Mark around 
same and shape the shoulder, reducing Yl '"ch at 
tthe armscye. 

Shape the neck gorge through 4 and the armscye 
as represented. 
Establish the buttonholes. 

Draw a crease line from a point I ' 4 inches from the 
neck gorge to the upper buttonhole. 
Draw a cutout ' 4 inch from 4. 
Shape the lapel and Iront. 

If desired an amount equal or less than the distance 
as between F and G can be taken out as the dot and 
dash lines indicate. 



Streiffs System 



23 




Diagram M 



24 



StreifFs System 



DIAGRAM N. 
D. B. OVERCOAT. 



The Measures: 

Sleeve under arm 18 

Shoulder balance 30 

Attitude 26 

Natural waist 17 

Length 44 

Breast 44 

Waist 39 

Seat 45 

NOTE: The shoulder and attitude measures have 
been increased 3 inches each and the breast, waist and 
seat measures 6 inches each as taken over the vest. 

TO DRAFT. 

A is the point from which square. 

B from A is the natural waist. 

C from A is the length. 

D from A is I 3 shoulder balance. 

E from D is 1 48 shoulder balance. Square forward 
from E, B and C. 

F from B is 1 16 attitude. 

G from F is '4 inch for each inch the waist is less 
than the breast. 1 ' 4 inches for this diagram. 

H from G is Yl waist. 

I from H is 2 inches. 

J from I is 3 inches, or Yl the amount desired for lap- 
over. Square down from J. 

K. 1 1 om E is Yl breast. 

L from K. is 2 inches. 

M from L is 3 inches, or Yl 'he amount desired for 
lapover. Draw a line from M to J. 

N from E is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, 1 4 
inches for this diagram. Square up and down 
from N. 

O from E is '/4 of the distance as between E and N. 

P from O is the same distance as between E and N. 
Square up from P, guiding by point O. 

Q from P is Yl attitude plus I inch for making, 1 4 
inches for this diagram. 

R from E is the same distance as between E and A 
plus 1 inch (or plus the amount added to Yl atti- 
tude as from E to N). 

S from R is the same distance as between R and P. 
Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square 
forward from Q. 

For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl of 
attitude plus I inch always, which for this diagram 
is 1 4 inches. 



T from A is ' 4. Square up from T. 
U from T is I 24. 

V from Eis I 12. 

W from V is Yl- Square up from W. 

X from W is 1 12. Square forward from X. 

Y from W is I 3. 

Z from Y is I 6. Square forward from Z. 

1 from Z is I 24. Draw a line from T to 1 and 
shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 

2 fromN is 1 12. 

3 from Q is 1 6. Draw a line from 3 to L. 

4 from 3 is Yl- Square to 4, guiding by line P-Q. 

5 from X is 1 12. Square down from 5. 

6 is at the intersection of the lines squared down from 
5 and forward from B. 

7 from 6 is the same distance as between B and G. 

8 from 7 is I4 inch for each inch the seat is larger 
than the waist, 1 Yl inches for this diagram. Square 
down from 8. 

9 from 8 is Yl natural waist. Square back from 9. 
10 from 9 is 1 24 seat. Draw a line from 8 through 

10. 
1 I from 8 is the same distance as between B and C. 

Square forward from I I . 
12 is the junction of the lines squared forward from I I 

and down from N. Square forward from 12. 
I 3 from II is \Yl inches. Note: The amount can 

be increased or decreased as desired. 
I 4 is at the junction of the lines squared forward from 

C and down from 5. 
I 5 from I 4 is the same distance as between I I and I 3. 

Draw lines from 6 to I 3 and 6 to 15. Shape the 

bottom of fore part. 
I 6 from N is 2 3 of sleeve under arm and is center of 

pocket. Draw the pocket opening through 16 \~> 

parallel the bottom of fore part and make 7 inches 

in width, more or less, as desired. Cut out the 

back and place point A at point Q with the line 

A-O on the line squared back from Q by point S. 

Mark around same and shape the shoulder, reducing 

Yl inch at the armscye. 

Shape the neck gorge through 4 and the armscye as 

represented. 

Establish the buttonholes. 

Draw a crease line from a point I '4 inches from the 

neckgorge to the upper buttonhole. 

Draw a cutout '4 inch from 4 as represented. 

Shape the lapel and front. 

The buttons are 6 inches from the edge or double 

the distance as between L and M, I and J. 



Streiff's System 



25 




J I H 



• m 



© 







B 




G F 



26 



StreifFs System 



DIAGRAM O. 
SINGLE-BREASTED CUTAWAY FROCK. 



The Measures: 

Shoulder balance 28 

At'itude 2h 

Natural waist 17 

Fashionable waist I &Yl 

Length 37 

Breast 40 

Waist 35 

Seat 41 

NOTE: The shoulder balance and attitude measures 
have been increased I inch each and the breast, waist and 
seat measures 2 inches each as taken aver the vest. (See 
note to diagram C for explanation.) 

TO DRAFT. 
A is the point from which square. 
B from A is the natural waist. 
C from A is Yl inch always. 
D from C is I 3 shoulder balance. 
E from D is I 48 shoulder balance. Square forward 

from E and B. 
F from B is I 16 attitude. 
G from F is J4 inch for each inch the waist is less than 

the breast. I J/4 inches for this diagram. 
H from G is Yl waist. 

I from H is 1Yl inches. Square down from I. 
J from I is Y+ inch, or Yl the amount desired for 

lapover. 
K from E is Yl breast. 
L from K. is 2Yl inches. 

M from L is ^4 inch, or Yl the amount desired fcr lap- 
over. Draw a line from M to J. 
N from E is Yl attitude plus 1 Yl inches for making. 

I 3'/2 inches for this diagram. Square up and down 

from N. 
O from E is '/» of the distance as between E and N. 
P from O is the same distance as between E and N. 

Square up from P, guiding by point O. 
Q from P is Yl attitude plus I inch for making, I 3 

inches for this diagram. 
R from E is the same distance as between E and C 

plus I Yl inches (or plus the amount added to J 2 

attitude as from E to N). 
S from R is the same distance as between R and P. 

Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square 

forward from Q. 

For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl of 

attitude plus 1 inch always, which for this diagram 

is 1 3 inches. 
T from A is '4. Square up from 1 . 
U from T is 1 24. 

V from E is 1 12. 

W from V is J/2. Square up from W. 

X from W is J/2 inch always. Square forward from X. 

Y from X is 1 3. 

Z from \ is I 6. Square forward from Z. 

1 from Z is 1 24. Draw a line from T to I and 
shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 

2 frcm Y is I 24. Square forward from 2. 

3 from X is I 6. 

4 from N is I 12. 

5 from Q is H 16. Draw a line from 5 to L. 



6 from 5 is Yl- Square to 6, guiding by line P-Q. 

7 from 2 is Yl inch always. 

8 is half way between E and W. 

9 from B is Yl inch always. 

1 from 9 is I 6. Shape from 2 through 8 to 10. 

Square down from 10. 
1 I from A is the fashionable waist. Square forward 

and back from 1 I . 
12 from I I is ?4 inch, more or less, as desired. Square 

down from I 2. 
1 3 from A is the length. Square forward from I 3. 

14 from 10 is the same as between B and F. Square 
down from I 4. 

15 from I 4 is Yl natural waist. Square back from 15. 

1 6 from 15 is 1 24 seat. Draw a line from 14 
through 1 6 and shape from 7 to 1 4 as represented. 

I 7 from I 4 is I 3. 

1 8 from I 7 is Yl inch 'e ss lnan tne distance as be- 
tween F and G. The half inch deducted use for a 
cutout at the intersection of the lines squared down 
from N and forward from B as represented. 
Shape from a point J 4 inch back from 3 through I 7 
and I 8. Shape from 7 to a point Yl inch back from 
3 as represented. 

1 9 is at the intersection of the lines squared forward 
from I I and drawn from 1 4 through I 6. 

20 and 

21 are established at the junction of the line squared 
forward from I I with the lines shaped through 1 / 
and I 8. 

22 from I is ' n waist. Draw a line from 21 to 22. 

23 from 19 is V* inch always. Square forward from 
23 and draw a line from 23 to 20. 

24 from 23 is Yl inch less than the bottom width of 
sidebody as from 23 to 20. Draw a line forward 
from 24 to parallel the line 21-22. 

25 from 23 is J/4 inch more than the distance between 
12 and 13. Square forward and back from 25, 
guiding by line 16-25. 

26 is the junction of the lines squared forward from 25 
and down from N. 

27 from 16 is J/4 inch for each inch the seat is larger 
than the waist, 1 Yl inches for this diagram. 

28 from 25 is the same distance as between 16 and 27. 
Draw lines from 23 to 27 and from 27 to 28. 
Shape at 27 as represented. 

Cut out the back and place point A at point Q with 

the line A-O on the line squared back from Q by 

point S. Mark around same and shape the shoulder 

reducing Yl inch at the armscye. 

Shape the ne< kgorge through 6 and the armscye to 

3 as represented. 

Establish the buttonholes. 

Draw a crease line from a point 1 ' 4 inches from 

the neckgorge to the upper buttonhole. 

Draw a cutout '4 inch from 6. 

Shape the lapel and front. 

29 from 24 is the same distance as between 2 I and the 
front of fore part back of 22. 

Shape the skirt from 29 to 28. 

The cutout at the intersecting lines between 18 and 

H is squared by line 21-22. 



Streiff s System 



27 




Diagram O 



28 



StreifFs System 



DIAGRAM P.-DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK. 

The Measures: 

Shoulder balance 28 

Attilude 24 

Natural waist 17 

Fashionable waist l8'/2 

Length 41 

Breast 40 

Waist 35 

Seat 41 

NOTE: The shoulder balance and attitude measures 

have been increased 1 inch each and the breast, wa.st 

and seat measures 2 inches each as taken over the vest. 

(See note to diagram C.) 

TO DRAFT. 

A is the point from which square. 

B from A is the natural waist. 

C from A is yi inch always. 

D from C is I 3 shoulder balance. 

E from D is I 48 shoulder balance. Square forward 
from E and B. 

F from B is I 16 attitude. 

G from F is '/» inch for each inch the waist is less than 
the breast. 1 Ya inches for this diagram. 

H from G is Yl waist. 

I from H is 2Yl inches. Square down from I. 

J from 1 is 3 inches, or Yl the amount desired for 
lapover. 

K from E is |/2 breast. 

L from K is 2Yl inches. Draw a line through L and I. 

M from L is 4 inches, or Yl tne amount desired for 
lapover. Draw a line from M through J. 

N from E is Yl attitude plus 1 Yl inches for making, 
1 3/2 inches for this diagram. Square up and down 
from N. 

O from E is '/4 of the distance as between E and N. 

P from O is the same distance as between E and N. 
Square up from P, guiding by point O. 

Q from P is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making, I 3 
inches for this diagram. 

R from E is the same distance as between E and C 
plus I Yl inches (or plus the amount added to Yl 
attitude as from E to N). 

S from R is the same distance as be'ween R and P. 
Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square 
forward from Q. 

For all divisionals not otherwise specified use Yl of 
attitude plus 1 inch always, which for this diagram 
is 1 3 inches. 

T from A is '4. Square up from T. 

U from T is I 24. 

V from E is 1 12. 

W from V is Yl- Square up from W. 

X from W is Yl inch always. Square forward from X. 

Y from X is 1 3. 

Z from Y is I 6. Square forward from Z. 

1 from Z is I 24. Draw a line from 1 to I and 
shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 

2 from Y is 1 24. Square forward frcm 2. 

3 from X is 1 6. 

4 from N is 1 12. 

5 from Q is I 6. Draw a line from 5 to L. 

6 from 5 is Yl- Square to 6, guiding by line P-Q. 

7 from 2 is Yl inch always. 

8 is half way between E and W, 



9 from B is Yl inch always. 
10 from 9 is I 6. Shape from 2 through 8 to 1 

Square down from 10. 
1 1 from A is the fashionable waist. Square 

and back from 1 1 . 



'4 inch, more or less as desirec 



forward 
Square 



I 2 from I 1 is 

down from I 2. 
1 3 from A is the length. Square forward from 1 3. 
1 4 from 1 is the same as between B and F. Square 

down from 1 4. 

15 frcm 14 is Yl natural waist. Square back from 15. 

16 from I 5 is 1 24 seat. Draw a line from 14 through 
I 6 and shape from 7 to I 4 as represented. 

1 7 from I 4 is 1 3. 

1 8 from 1 7 is Yl inch less than the distance as between 

F and G. The half inch deducted use for a cutout 

at the intersection of the lines squared down from N 

and forward from B as represented. 

Shape from a point '74 inch back from 3 through 1 7 



7 to a point Yl inch back 



and 18. Shape from 
from 3 as represented. 

1 9 is at the intersection of the lines squared forward 
from 1 I and drawn from 14 through 16. 

20 and 

2 1 are established at the junction of the line squared 
forward from 1 1 with the lines shaped through I 7 
and I 8. 

22 from I is '/a waist. Draw a line frcm 21 to 22. 

23 from 19 is Y+ inch always. Square forward from 
23 and draw a line from 23 to 20. 

24 from 23 is Yl inch less than the bottom width of 
sidebody as from 23 to 20. Draw a line forward 
from 24 to parallel the line 21-22. 

25 from 23 is '4 inch more than the distance between 
12 and 13. Square forward and back from 25, 
guiding by line 16-25. 

26 is the junction of the lines squared forward from 25 
and down from N. Square forward from 26. Snap? 
the bottom of skirt. 

27 from 16 is '4 inch for each inch the seat is larger 
than the waist, 1 Yl inches for this diagram. 

28 from 25 is the same distance as between 16 and 27. 
Draw lines from 23 to 27 and from 27 to 28. 
Shape at 27 as represented. 

Cut out the back and place point A at point Q with 
the line A-O on the line squared back from Q by 
point S. Mark around same and shape the shoulder, 
reducing Yl inch at the armscye. 

Shape the neckgorge to 6 and the armscye to 3 as 
represented. 

Shape the bottom of fore part at 22 to run with the 
waist line and the skirt likewise. 

From I to the bottom of rever is the same distance as 
between I and the bottom of fore part. Square for- 
ward, guiding by line I-L. 

Establish the buttonholes and draw a crease line 
from a point 1 I/4 inches from the neckgorge to the 
upper buttonhole. 

29 from L is the same distance as between L and 6. 
Shape the lapel. 

30 from 24 is Yl inch less than the bottom width of 
fore part, including rever. Square down from 30, 
guiding by the waist line. 

The cutout at the intersecting lines between 18 and 
H is squared by line 21-22. 



Streiffs System 




Diagram P 



30 



StreifFs System 



DIAGRAM Q— DRESS COAT 
The Measures: 

Shoulder balance 28 

Altitude 24 

Natural waist 1 ' 

Fashionable waist I &Yl 

Length 39 

Breast 40 

Waist 35 

Seat 41 

NOTE: The shoulder balance and attitude measures 
have been increased I inch each and the breast, waist 
and seat measures 2 inches each as taken over the vest. 
(See note to diagiam C.) 

TO DRAFT 
A is the point from which square. 
B from A is the natural waist. 
C from A is Yl inch always. 
D from C is I 3 shoulder balance. 
E from D is I 48 shoulder balance. Square forward 

from E and B. 
F from B is 116 attitude. 
G from F is '/i inch for each inch the waist is less than 

the breast. I Ya inches for this diagram. 
H from G is Yl waist. 

I from H is 2Yl inches. Square down from I. 
J from I is 1 /6 waist. 
K. Irom E is Yl breast. 
L from K is 2 V 2 inches. 

M from L is 1 Yl inches more or less as desired. 
N from E is Yl attitude plus I Yl inches for making. 
1 3!/? inches for this diagiam. Square up and down 
from N. 
O from E is Ya of t ne distance as between E and N. 
P from O is the same distance as between E ar.d N. 

Square up from P, guiding by point O. 
Q from P is Yl attitude plus 1 inch for making. I 3 

inches for this diagram. 
R from E is the same distance as between E and C 
plus I Yl inches (or plus the amount added to Yl 
attitude as from E to N). 
S from R is the same distance as between R and P. 
Square back from Q, guiding by point S. Square 
forward from Q. 

For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl of 
attitude plus I inch always, which for this diagram 
is 1 3 inches. 
T from A is ' 4. Square up from T. 
U from T is I 24. 

V from E is I 12. 

W from V is ' >. Square up from \V. 

X from W is Yl inch always. Square forward from X. 

Y from X is I 3. 

Z from Y is 1 6. Square forward from 7. 

1 from Z is 1 24. Draw a line from T to 1 and 
shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 

2 from Y is I 24. Square forward from 2. 

3 from X is 1 6. 

4 from N is I 12. 

5 from Q is 1 6. Draw a line from 5 to L. 

6 from 5 is Yl- Square to 6, guiding by line P-Q. 

7 from 2 is Yl inch always. 

8 is half way between E and W. 

9 from B is Yl inch always. 

1 from 9 is I 6. Shape from 2 through 8 to 10. 



Square forward and 

Square 

13. 
Square 



Square down from 10. 
1 1 from A is the fashionable waist. 

back from 1 1 . 
12 trom II is Vi inch, more or less as desired. 

down from I 2. 
I 3 from A is the length. Square forward from I 3. 

14 from 10 i.« the same as between B and F. 
down from I 4. 

15 from I 4 is \ 1 natural waist. Square back from 15. 

16 from 1 5 is 1 24 seat. Draw a line from 14 through 
1 6 and shape from 7 to I 4 as represented. 

17 from 1 4 is 1 3. 

1 8 from I 7 is Yl inch less than the distance as between 
F and G. The half inch deducted use for a cutout 
at the intersection of the lines squared down from N 
and forward from B as represented. Shape from a 
point Ya inch back from 3 through 1 7 and I 8. Shape 
from 7 to a point Yl ' ncn hack from 3 as represented. 

19 is at the intersection of the lines squared forward from 
1 I and drawn from 1 4 through I 6. 

20 and 

21 are established at the junction of the line squared for- 
ward from 1 I with the lines shaped through 1 7 and 
18. 

22 from I is 1 6 waist. Draw a line from 21 to 22. 

23 from 19 is 3 -4 inch always. Square forward from 23 
and draw a line from 23 to 20. 

24 from 23 is Yl inch less than the bottom width of side- 
body as from 23 to 20. Draw a line forward from 
24 to parallel the line 21-22. 

25 from 23 is Ya inch more than the distance between 12 
and 13. Square forward and back from 25, guid.ng 
by line 16-25. 

26 from 16 is '4 inch for each inch the seat is larger than 
the waist. 1 Yl inches for this diagram. 

27 from 25 is the same as from 16 to 26. Draw lines 
from 23 to 26 and from 26 to 27. Shape at 26 as 
represented. 

28 from 27 is the same distance as between I and J. 
Draw a line downward from J, guiding by point 28. 

29 from 24 is the same distance as between 2 1 and the 
line drawn from J by 28. Draw a line from 29 to 
28 and shape the front and bottom of skirl. 
Establish the buttonholes. 

Shape the front from the upper buttonhole, reducing 
about Yl inch at 22. 

30 is I Yl inches from the line 21-22. Draw a line back 
from 30 to parallel the line 21-22. Shape the bot- 
tom of fore part and top of skirt. Cut out tie back 
and place point A at point Q with the line A-O on 
the line squared back from Q by point S. Mark 
around same and shape the shoulder, reducing Yl inch 
at the armscye. 

31 from 6 is I 12. Shape the neckgorge to 31 and 
square down from 31 by the line just shaped. Shape 
the armscye to 3 as represented. Draw a line up 
from L, guiding by point I. 

32 from L is the same distance as between 3 I and L. 

33 from 31 is (2 inch less than the distance between 31 
ar.d 32. Draw a line from 33 to connect with the 
line squared down from 3 I at the breast line. Draw 
a crease line from a point I ! ^ inches from the neck- 
gorge to the upper buttonhole. Shape the lapel. 
The cutout at the intersectng lines between 18 and J 
is squared by the shaped line on bottom of fore part, 



StreifFs System 



31 




Diagram Q 



32 



StreifPs System 



DIAGRAM R. 
LADIES' COAT. 



The Measures: 

Shoulder balance 25 

Attitude 22 

Natural waist ' -> 

Length 26 

Breast 36 

Bust 39 

Waist 27 

Seat 42 

NOTE: The shoulder balance and attitude measures 

have been increased I inch each and the breast, bust, 

waist and seat measures 2 inches each as taken over the 

form. (See diagram C.) For the following diagram no 

seams have been allowed and must be added when cut- 
ting the cloth. 

TO DRAFT. 

A is the point from which square. 

B from A is the natural waist. 

C from B is Yl natural waist. 

D from A is the length. 

E from A is 1 3 shoulder balance. 

F from E is I 48 shoulder balance. Square forward 
from F, B, C and D. 

G from B is 1 16 attitude. 

H from G is % inch for each inch the waist is less than 

the breast, 2 '4 inches for this diagram. 

I from H is Yl waist. 

J from I is the amount the bust is more than the breast, 
3 inches for this diagram. 

K from J is I inch. 

L from K. is lx 2 inch or Yl the amount desired for lap- 
over. 

M from F is Yl breast. 

N from M is 1 inch. 

O from N is Yl °f 'he distance as between I and J. 

P from O is the same distance as between K and L. 
Draw a line from P through L. 

Q from F is Yl attitude. Square up and down from 

Q. 

R from F is Yi, of the distance as between F and Q. 
S from R is the same distance as between F and Q. 

Square up from S, guiding by point R. 
T from S is Yl attitude, I 1 inches for this diagram. 
U from F is the same distance as between F and A. 

V from U is the same distance as between U and S. 
Square back from T, guiding by point V. Square 
forward from T. 

For all divisional not otherwise specified use Yl °f 
attitude, which for this diagram is 1 1 inches. 

W from A is %. Square up from W. 

X from W is 1 24. 

Y from F is 1 12. 

Z from Y is Yl- Square up from Z. 

1 from Z is I 3. 

2 from I is ' 4. Square forward from 2. 

3 from 2 is 1 24. Draw a line from W to 3 and 
shape the top and armscye of back as represented. 

4 from 3 is I 6. 



5 from Q is 1 12. 

6 from T is 1 6. Draw a line from 6 to N. 

7 from 6 is Yl- Square to 7, guiding by line S-T. 
8 is half way between Z and F. 

9 from B is 1 4. Shape from 4 through 8 to 9. 
1 from 9 is the same distance as between B and G. 
1 I from 10 is !4. 
1 2 from 1 I is the same distance as between G and H. 

Square down from 9, 10, II and 12, establishing 
13 
14 

15 and 

1 6 at the junction of the lines so squared with the line 
squared forward from C. 

1 7 is half way between I I and 12. Square up from 1 7. 

1 8 is the junction of the line squared up from 17 with 
the line shaped at armscye. Draw lines from 1 8 to 
II and 12. 

19 from 14 is I 24 seat. 

20 is half way between I 4 and 19. 

21 from 13 is the same distance as between 14 and 20. 
Draw lines from 9 through 21 and 10 through 20. 

22 from 1 6 is '/g inch for each inch the seat is larger 
than the waist. I V% inches for this diagram. 

23 from 15 is the same distance as between 22 and 16. 
Square down from 22 and 23. Draw lines from 
II to 23 and from 12 to 22. Shape from I 8 to II 
and 23 and from 1 8 to 12 and 22 as represented. 
Shape from a point above 8 to 10. 

24 is the junction of the line 10-20 with the line squared 
forward from D. Square forward from 24, guiding 
by points 10-19. 

25 is the junction of the lines squared forward from 24 
and down from Q. Square forward from 25. 

26 is the junction of the lines squared down from 22 
and forward from 24. 

27 is the same distance from 23 as between 22 and 26. 
Shape from 24 to 27. Shape from 26 as represented. 

28 is half way between O and Q. 

29 from K is the same distance as between O and 28. 
Draw a line from 28 through 29. 

30 from 29 is the same distance as from I to J. Square 
down Irom 30. 

Cut out (he back and place point A at point 1 with 
the line A-R on the line squared back from T by 
point V. Mark around same and shape the shoulder, 
reducing Y% inch at the armscye. 

Shape the neckgorge through 7 and the armscye as 
represented. 

Shape from point 4 on the back to 29. Shape the 
bust to 30 as represented. 

31 is the junction of the lines drawn from 28 through 
29 and squared forward from 25. Square back to 
31, guiding by line L-P. Establish the buttonholes 
and draw a crease line from a point I ' 4 inches from 
the neckgorge to the upper buttonhole. 

Draw a cutout at 7 as represented. 
Shape the lapel. 



StreifFs System 



33 




34 



Streiff's System 



DIAGRAM S. 
LADIES' SKIRT. 



I lie Measures : 

Waist 25 

Seat 42 

Length in front 41 

Note : The seat measure has been increased 2 inches 
for extra ease as taken over the form. For the following 
diagram no seams have been allowed and must be added 
when cutting the cloth. 

TO DRAFT. 

For convenience use Yl °f seat measure for all di- 
visional not otherwise specified, which for this dia- 
gram is 2 I inches. 
A is the point from which square. 

B from A is the length in front. Square forward from 
B. 

C from A is Yl of whole seat. Square down from C. 

D from C is I 12. 

E from A is 1 3. Square forward from E. 

h is the junction of the lines squared down from C and 
forward from E. Draw a line down through D and 
F. 

G is half way between E and F. 

H from G is I 3. Square up from H. 

I is the junction of the lines squared up from H and 
forward from A. 

J from I is Y% waist. Draw a line through J to G. 

K from I is ' « waist. Draw a line from K through E. 
Square back to I. guiding by line J-G. 



L is the junction of the line J-G and the line squared 
back to I. Shape at I as represented. Circle from 
L, pivoting at G. 

M from L is Yi inch for each inch the waist is less than 
the seat, 4'/4 inches for this diagram. 

N from M is Yl °f tne distance as between L and M. 

O is half way between M and N. Draw a line from O 
to G and square forward from O by same. Shape 
slightly from O to G. 

P from F and 

Q from D is the same distance as between H and E. 

R from P and 

S from Q is the same distance as between N and O. 
Draw a line through Q to P and through S to R. 

T is the junction of the line squared forward from O 
and the line drawn through S to R. Square for- 
ward from T by line S-R. 

U is the junction of the line squared forward from T 
and the line Q-P. Shape from T and U as repre- 
sented. Shape from N to a point above T and from 
U as represented. Square forward to B, guiding by 
line K-E. 

V is the junction of the line squared forward to B and 
line K-E. 

W is the junction of the line squared forward from B 

and line D-F. 
X is half way between W and V. Draw a line from 

G to X and shape at G as represented. 

Y is the junction of the lines C-F and B-W. Square 
back to Y, guiding by line D-F. Shape the bottom 
from V to X and from X reducing at Y as repre- 
sented. 



StreifFs System 



35 




Diagram S 



jui 6 m 



